Autumn on the Catskills’ Devil’s Path

If you love hiking when the forest smells like woodsmoke and the maples are throwing confetti, the Catskills in fall are hard to beat. The light gets low and honey-gold by midafternoon. Leaves skitter over rock like playing cards. You can hear water before you see it. And then there’s Devil’s Path—our region’s legendary roller coaster of a trail—where the terrain asks for your full attention and, oddly enough, gives you clarity in return.

The West Kill entry from Spruceton Road

Most folks hear “Devil’s Path” and picture the big, burly east-to-west traverse. True. But one of the best introductions is the western end, accessible from Spruceton Road in the hamlet of West Kill. (Ahem! And you can stay right on Spruceton Road to minimize your commute).

• Where you start: Drive Spruceton Road (CR 6) to the DEC lots near the road’s end. From there, the Diamond Notch Trail leads you gently into the woods.

• How you join Devil’s Path: In roughly a mile, you hit the junction for the red-blazed Devil’s Path. Hang a left and the character changes fast—steeper grades, rock ledges, and that Catskill mix of moss and slab that keeps you honest.

• The payoff: West Kill Mountain and Buck Ridge Lookout. Buck Ridge is the money spot—sweeping views toward Hunter’s fire tower, the broad valleys, and the serrated skyline of the range you’re walking.

As a day hike, out-and-back to Buck Ridge from Spruceton is a classic fall objective. Expect real work: sustained climbing, 2,000-ish feet of gain, and sections that get slick with leaves or early frost. It’s strenuous, not technical; you’ll use your hands a couple times, mostly for balance. If you’ve got more gas and daylight, staying on Devil’s Path eastbound teases you toward Devil’s Acre and the wild interior near Southwest Hunter, but that becomes a committing day. In fall, prudence beats FOMO.

Why some people make big decisions on Devil’s Path

I get why this belief exists. The trail forces a rhythm that’s perfect for thinking clearly:

• Climb, breathe, simplify. The grades strip your to-do list down to one thing: the next step.

• Cols as check-ins. Every descent into a notch is a reset. You’ve just worked for your elevation; now you choose to give some back. That trade—loss for momentum—mirrors decision-making in life.

• Views as truth serum. Buck Ridge, Plateau’s ledges farther east, even a quiet bend on the Diamond Notch stream…They’re perspective machines. You see the bigger shape of things, not the noise.

I’ve watched people hike in with mental spaghetti and hike out with one clean strand to follow. You don’t have to come seeking answers; the terrain has a way of turning down the volume until the signal pops.

When to go and what to expect in fall

• Timing: Peak color typically runs late September to mid-October, with higher ridges cresting first. After that, you get copper-beech and oak tones and more open views.

• Conditions: Wet leaves can be as slick as ice. Early mornings may bring frost on rock and roots. Daylight shrinks fast—pack a headlamp even for “short” plans.

• Hunting season: Wear some blaze orange; it’s courteous and smart in October–November.

  Crowds and parking: Weekends fill early on Spruceton Road. Have a Plan B lot or go early/late.

How I’d do the day from Spruceton

• Start relaxed: Leave the car by 8–9 a.m. Walk the Diamond Notch Trail along the old road bed. It’s an easy warmup with a side peek at Diamond Notch Falls if you want it.

• Commit to the climb: Turn onto Devil’s Path and settle into steady, conversational effort. The grade bites, then relents, then bites again.

• Savor Buck Ridge: Snack, layer up, and give yourself 10 quiet minutes. If you brought a question with you, this is where you listen for the answer.

• Turnaround discipline: Note your turnaround time before you start. Stick to it. Fall shadows arrive early in these valleys.

What to pack (light but right)

• Footing insurance: Grippy hiking shoes/boots; microspikes in the trunk if temps flirt with freezing.

• Layers: Wicking base, warm midlayer, wind/water shell. It can be 15–20 degrees cooler on the ridge.

• Lights: Headlamp with fresh batteries—non-negotiable in fall.

• Water and calories: At least 1.5–2 liters; a filter if you like refilling at streams.

• Map/route info: NY-NJ Trail Conference Catskill map set or downloaded offline map. Service is spotty.

• Small first aid, emergency bivy, whistle. They live in my pack year-round.

Respect the place

• Stay on trail to protect fragile moss and soils.

• Pack out everything, yes, including that orange peel.

• Yield well on narrow ledges; we’re all trying to have a good day out here.

Nearby comforts

Post-hike, Spruceton Road has its own quiet charm. West Kill Brewing for a lager with mountain views hits different after Buck Ridge. If you overnight, local cabins make a great base for leaf-peeping weekends. Check out this one and and this one, too.

One last nudge

Devil’s Path has a reputation—and it earns it—but don’t let the legend spook you off the West Kill approach. In fall especially, it’s the good kind of hard: the kind that carries your mind somewhere simpler and steadier than where it started. Bring a question if you like. By the time the leaves are crunching under your boots back on Spruceton Road, you might just have your answer. Or at least the next right step.